Ignition timing can make or break your car. Literally. This tool can help you get more power out of your car and stay safe!
Some Info On Ignition Advance
As I said in the video, ignition tuning is a MASSIVE topic with hundreds of theories and strategies as to what works best, what makes the most power, and what’s best for safety. Here are some resources that can help further your education on the topic:
Building Your Own Set
These are the basic supplies you’ll need. You may have to get creative based on what your local Home Depot/Lowes has available. The only thing you need to do is coordinate the sizes of everything, i.e. if you get 3/8″ ID hose, you need 3/8″ fittings and clamps, etc. Mine are all 3/8″ NPT -> 3/8″ barb fittings with 3/8″ ID hose.
Now ruin your brand new ear muffs. In my case I used a 9/16″ drill bit to suit my 3/8″ NPT tap (this is the same tap for your boosted Miata’s oil pan, Megasquirt IAT sensor, and other various parts of the car… it has been very useful.)
You should be at this stage now. Well, you’ll probably pull of the new head gear a little better than me.
Now take your copper tube and smash it flat, drill a hole in it based on what size bolt you’ll use to attach it to the block, and cut off the extra length if you like.
I got a female brass fitting that almost fit onto my copper tube. Almost. A quick shave of the threads and it fit like a glove. I threaded it on and gave the end a little bend. (You’ll see why below).
I found a vacant hole in the block to bolt the end to. It’s not the best location for hearing knock, but it’s still much more effective than trying to hear it without any tool at all. (The video clearly demonstrates the sound when I purposely induce knock.) The best place to put it would be the factory location on the later cars, between cylinder 2 & 3 towards the top of the block.