The Devil’s in the details they say. Making sure all of your lines are routed properly is very important! Video Notes: -These eBay t-bolt clamps are horrible. If you use them, you might need to clamp them down as tight as they can go to avoid boost leaks.
Fish gotta swim, turbos gotta drink. Without lubrication and cooling, your turbo might be in for an early dirt nap, so take notes! I’ve still had several questions about where I got my lines and fittings from. I literally just hop on eBay and search “T25 Water Lines” or “T25 Oil Drain” or whatever I need.
Hear me out on this one: THIS MOD IS ESSENTIAL for boosting with a stock ECU and injectors. You can install a slightly larger injector with the stock ECU, but nothing huge. You can install 1.8L injectors on a 1.6L. You cannot install 550cc RX7 injectors though, the stock ECU cannot control those. The answer is to add an FMU
I’ll be honest, this was an experiment. There are much more expensive “O2 Clamps” available that have fancy inner workings and probable work better than my idea. However, this actually seems to work pretty well, and I’ve had two reports from people adding this to their boosted/stock-ecu cars and they say it actually helped with the boost transition. Video Notes:
Aaaaalright. Much better. For your reference, it’s honestly a much better idea to just use the proper sized T3 frame turbocharger with this manifold (See below). In my case, I already had a T3 manifold and T2 turbo, so this will have to work. Update 7/17/16: About 2000 miles and it’s still going strong. Per Lars, owner of MKTurbo.com (check
This plan was a fail from the very beginning. I’m posting it here still so you know the origins of episode “9.1.” Fail 1: Turbo location. The turbo would have been up high and off to the side, and the downpipe would have used all of its heat power to melt the brake master cylinder. Fail 2: Adding multiple points